Put the spring back in your shock with our step-by-step video guide on how to fit offset shock bushings or just replace worn bushings.
How to fit offset shock bushings
Shock bushings live in the eyelets of shocks and they’re sacrificial parts that prevent wear to the shock itself. How do you know if you’re shock bushings need replacing?
Easy, the shock will rattle on the mounting hardware and it feels similar to a loose headset. The easiest way to pinpoint any play in a shock bushing is to lift the bike up by the saddle then put it down again feeling for movement with your fingers on the shock eyelets.
The first thing to do if you detect play is to make sure that the corresponding shock mounting bolt is tight. If the play is still present after the bolt had been torqued correctly then you will need to replace the bushing. Both bushings don’t need to be done as a pair, just as and when required.
On most bikes the bushing at one end of the shock is more prone to wear than the other, as they are often subjected to varying amounts of rotation. Their location also plays a part, as more dirt accelerates bushing wear.
The bushings themselves are cheap (about two quid) and worn ones should be replaced ASAP to prevent potential damage to the more expensive fitting hardware.
When you have the shock out to replace the bushings, you can also tweak your geometry by fitting offset shock hardware. With the hole for the mounting bolt drilled off centre, offset hardware can be used to shorten or lengthen the effective eye-to-eye length of your shock, thus changing the BB height and head angle.
This will have a noticeable effect to the way your bike handles but it will not change the amount of travel. Best of all, this simple modification is relatively cheap and can be completed with minimal tools.