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Thread: Dry lube / wet lube

  1. #11
    Senior Member gorehound's Avatar
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    EP140 saw chain oil. It sticks like shite to a shoe sole and it's pretty cheap compared to finishline etc.


    http://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Product...chain-oil.aspx
    Last edited by gorehound; 01-May-2012 at 05:10 AM.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member Fartblood's Avatar
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    Yeah, I've had some stretch but never beyond tolerance.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member markrussell78's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fartblood View Post
    Yeah, I've had some stretch but never beyond tolerance.
    The avatar pic of your trousers would say otherwise..
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  4. #14
    Senior Member Fartblood's Avatar
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    Ah, that was caused by me using grease to cure squeaking Avids.
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  5. #15
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    [QUOTE=reevil;134168]Surely a chain will eventually stretch, it'll just take longer if you're swapping between two? Which then wears the cassette and chainrings?......QUOTE]

    I accept that "stretch" in a chain is the commonly used word, but it is worth pointing out to those that may be new to biking that they don't actually "stretch". The pins wear and the chain gets longer, it just looks as though it has stretched. With (lets say) 110 links, each 0.5" long, a 1% lengthening due to wear is 0.55" over the whole chain. That is more than one whole link. Each pin only has to wear by five thousandths of an inch, but that is quite a lot on such a small diameter component. I measured a pin at 0.144" diameter, so a wear of 0.005" is a reduction in diameter of 3.5%.

    As the pins wear, the pitch of the chain increases and the roller no longer slots nicely into the teeth on the cassette and rings. What is supposed to happen is that the roller just sits in the teeth and it is the pins that slide around inside the roller. It's in that gap where the lube needs to be. But as the chain wears, the roller starts to slide up and down the gear teeth as it tries to adjust to a mismatch in pitch. Because it is open to the elements, the tooth/roller contact area is a much more hostile environment and the wear can be quite rapid. As the pin wears (also the inside of the roller), the gap opens up and allows in yet more water and other sh1te, further accelerating wear. So a thick water resistant oil in that area should keep out more crap and preserve the chain (and therefore the gears) for longer.

    Which is why Fartblood's procedures are working.
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  6. #16
    Senior Member Fartblood's Avatar
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    I like puppies!
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  7. #17
    Senior Member gorehound's Avatar
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    I like bitches.
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  8. #18
    Senior Member MTBLeague's Avatar
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    Well thought through Fartb and analysed steve but....................................

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  9. #19
    Member olandbenlumol's Avatar
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    I usually go between wet or dry finish line depending on the conditions but I'm currently trying 'Squirt' dry wax lube - All good so far. Runs very quietly, doesnt attract loads of shit and can be used throughout the year.

  10. #20
    Senior Member GTDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olandbenlumol View Post
    I usually go between wet or dry finish line depending on the conditions but I'm currently trying 'Squirt' dry wax lube - All good so far. Runs very quietly, doesnt attract loads of shit and can be used throughout the year.
    I'm using this at the moment. Used wet finish line before, got loads of dust an crap stuck to chain. So far so good. Squirt squirt squirt!!!

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