AndyWaterman
journeyman
Reged: 30/11/2006
Posts: 61
Loc: Croydon UK
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From now on we're not receiving questions for the Q&A section via email — unfortunately the MBR mainframe collapsed under the weight of the undeleted messages.
So from now on, if you've got a question for the experts, let us know here on the forum. Our gurus are on hand to help, as are the other forum users.
What are you waiting for? Get posting!
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jacks2ts
stranger
Reged: 12/04/2008
Posts: 2
Loc: BANGOR NORN IRON
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can i get a pair of old but in top nick noleen c.s. crosslink fork into a giant trance frame , with its intergrated headset will i need a spacer to raise the frame to compansate for standerd headset and if so who might make one its an 1 1/8th steerer
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RODE THE GOOD / THE BAD BUT STEER CLEAR OF THE UGLY ! ! !
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DAZMO
stranger
Reged: 21/04/2008
Posts: 2
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Hi Guys
Last year one of your long term test bikes was the Specialized Enduro SL. In your December 2007 issue I note that you had a lot of problems setting up the forks. You went to the extent of changing the air pressure in the negative air spring. I weigh about 13 stone with all my riding gear on, can you please recommend a set up for my forks that will get me the best out of my Enduro as like you i am having problems getting the front end up!
Failing that I am thinking of changing the bike, I am thinking of either the Marin Attack Trail 08 or the new Trek Remedy, which would you go for?
Thanks
DAZMO
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PoshEd
stranger
Reged: 10/03/2008
Posts: 2
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Andy,
A group of us are going down to the Passport for the first time this summer - a couple of things we are a bit bothered about:-
1) Do we need any body armour or elbow & knees pads?
2) You say in May's mag to 'Beef Up' the tyres & tubes - can you be a bit more specific - my local shop is recommending reinforced sidewall 2.3 High Roller - what's your thoughts.
We are not going to try and win as we are 40 somethings and only get out a couple of times a week.
If you have any must know bits of advice please help us get the best out of the weekend.
many thanks
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redasa
stranger
Reged: 03/05/2008
Posts: 1
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Hi Lads,
2 questions:
Following from your geometry article in the mag., do manufacturers state their geometry angles (for hardtails to keep it simple) for a static, unweighted bike or do they take into account the average sag that the intended rider will diall into the fork ? eg: a 100mm fork sagged 20 to 30mm
Secondly, since the post type brake mount has been adopted on almost all new forks, why do bike manufacturers still use I.S. mounts on their frames ?
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lamby
stranger
Reged: 08/05/2008
Posts: 1
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I have a kona hoss and they have the rubbish hayes sole brakes and i think its about time the pad swere changes. how hard is this and do you have a procedure
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Gav
stranger
Reged: 10/05/2008
Posts: 1
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Whilst changing the gear cables on my Giant XTC, it occured to me that there are too many points within the cable routing where dirt and water ingress can occur. Why do manufacturers continue to run interupted cables? Why not run the cable with the outer sheath from the gear lever all the way to the front or rear mech thereby leaving only 2 points of ingress rather than the 4 of an interupted cable?
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Dingbatbell
stranger
Reged: 18/05/2008
Posts: 19
Loc: North East
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Hi, I've got an S-works StumpJumper Carbon that has an integrated headset; does this mean that I can't fit any other head set to that frame? What if I need to replace it? 
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www.dingbatbell.com
The Aimless Wanderings Of A Dingbat
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Sir_Queuesalot
old hand
Reged: 05/12/2007
Posts: 1108
Loc: South Cheshire
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Hey Dingbatbell,
I'm riding an 06 Sworks stumpy carbon, which is the same as the 07 apart from the colour and the spesh rear shock & brain. If it's one of these it's my understanding that they've got us and its a return to dealer to replace if its knackered. Having said that I've stripped my down, cleaned up the bearings and reasembled with very little fuss. I did this after a full lower bearing submergence in Rydal Water (much deeper than I expected!) I think its the same if it's the 08 model as they're integrated as well.
Anyone else know anything different?
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My LBS couldn't fix my brakes so they made my bell louder 
Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast!!
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Dingbatbell
stranger
Reged: 18/05/2008
Posts: 19
Loc: North East
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Aye, I think mine is the 2006 model as well, black with the Brain Fade on the rear shock.I only ask because I had a bit of an accident in the Cheviots... http://www.dingbatbell.com/wp-content/gallery/boarder-ridge/cimg8044.jpg which may require me to change it or clean it out or something. 
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www.dingbatbell.com
The Aimless Wanderings Of A Dingbat
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Sir_Queuesalot
old hand
Reged: 05/12/2007
Posts: 1108
Loc: South Cheshire
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Yep, its the same as mine, I recognise it from the angle you've stukka'd it into the bog.
Nice work!
Looks like eggbeaters for pedals so did you eject in time or take a trip over the bars? I've lost count of the times I've stuffed it into a bog, the best being 2 shallow puddles followed by a 3rd which was 2 feet deep thick black peat bog in front of a load of young lady DofE award hikers! Fortunately I was so covered in black shite you couldn't see me blush! Mate still pi55ess himself now when he thinks of it. Anyway, I'd reccommend a strip down, fairly easy just go steady at it. Drop out the forks, and gently tap out the inner bearing collar from the bottom race, the ball bearings will be free at that stage so best done in a stand and upside down over a bucket just in case. Mine was so easy I assume they're built that way so you can strip them, clean them re-lube em and carry on. Let me know how much your LBS charges if you do take it in.
PS
How's it handle with a laid back seatpost did you add this or has it always had one?
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My LBS couldn't fix my brakes so they made my bell louder
Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast!!
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Dingbatbell
stranger
Reged: 18/05/2008
Posts: 19
Loc: North East
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Over the bars I'm afraid to say... soft landing mind.
I used to have a straight Easton carbon seat post but it kept slipping down so I put the one that came with the frame, the Thomson, which was spot on and only a fraction heavier.
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www.dingbatbell.com
The Aimless Wanderings Of A Dingbat
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Typhoo
stranger
Reged: 01/06/2008
Posts: 2
Loc: Cheshire
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Hi everybody i'm new to this. my question is i'm riding a maxxis high roller 2.35 at the rear (nice  ) and its been suggested that the maxxis advance 2.4 would be good at the front. any comments
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8nbanka
stranger
Reged: 03/06/2008
Posts: 2
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Juicy 5 callipers insist on sticking (?) and rubbing on disc. I had service / new pistons about 5 months ago but front is starting again. Can I maintain them better or repair myself? Help, last visit to lbs cost £100 ,Ive seen new set for that
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cg9935
stranger
Reged: 06/06/2008
Posts: 3
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Rims and Tyre width.
Something bothering me recently. My wheel rims are 559 x 17. Can I safely fit 2.35 tyres to these rims and is there a criteria which should be followed.
Many thanks. Norm
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greeneye
old hand
Reged: 19/04/2008
Posts: 840
Loc: sunderland
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hi JamieD,
Im just going to pick your brains if thats okay.
i was in the market for a used set of fox rl 100mm forks, while looking i came accross a set of fox f100 terra logic forks, with the forks locked out until there needed i thought that was great, no need to think about locking off on the climbs.
I bought the forks and have been riding with them for a few months now. (love em)
there 2006 models and i feel a service is due, i was just wondering if you have ever used them and what you think of them, please be honest i can take it.
Did i make the right choice or should i have went for the rl's?
cheers J.
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I. falloffalot
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polterpoko
stranger
Reged: 10/06/2008
Posts: 1
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Right,
I hope some one can help me! This might be a basic question but im very new to mountain bike riding. I bought a bike about a week ago and got a puncture shortly after, i took the wheel off and took it to halfords to have the inner tube repaced (I had just set off riding and halfords was closer than homne) and ever since i put the wheel back on its been rubbing on the front disc brake.
How do i adjust it so it doesnt? is it worth taking it to the bike shop?
Thanks
Jason
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JamieD
journeyman
Reged: 16/04/2008
Posts: 83
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Hi Greeneye,
I think Muldoon tested them when they first came out and decided he didn't like them very much! If I remember, it was because you can't turn the lockout on or off as you choose - maybe that just means he's a control freak! But if you like them that's all that really matters.
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Jamie Darlow
staff writer, mbr
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Sir_Queuesalot
old hand
Reged: 05/12/2007
Posts: 1108
Loc: South Cheshire
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Hi Polt...
Shouldn't be too difficult.
Firstly, given that Halfords wouldn't have done anything with your rotor (brake disc), unless it was dropped and they bent the rotor (worth checking it's not a buckle just in case) and given you haven't bashed your fork legs around it may just be the seating of the wheel skewer is a little off. Turn your bike upside down, losen the skewer and give the wheel a wiggle, re-tighten the skewer and see if that does the trick. OK, great! Not OK, step 2!.
Step 2, find the manual that came with the brakes and check what it says about adjusting the caliper. Apply new learning to brakes. OK, great! Not OK (no manual) step 3.
Only go to step 3 if the brakes are hydraulic with twin pistons (a piston on either side) not if one brake pad is fixed and only 1 brake pad moves. - step 4 if cable or single piston only.
Step 3, easy if you have a bike stand, not so easy if you don't. Get the bikes front wheel off the floor so you can spin it freely. Looking at the brake caliper there are 2 hex bolts that attach it to the brake carrier. Loosen these slightly, spin the wheel gently then apply the brake gently. This will self centre the rotor between both moving pads, you should see the caliper move slightly. release the brake, does it still catch? Better or worse? Repeat process until you can spin the wheel without it catching. Then with the brake held firmly on re-tighten the retaining bolts, and give it a spin. It should rotate without catching. Tip, do the bolts up gently to begin with to avoid knocking the caliper out of alignment.
Step 4, if single sided or cable. Throw them away and buy some twin pot hydraulic brakes. (Joke)
There will be an adjuster screw that moves the brake pads in and out on each side of the caliper. There will also be a very small grub screw that you will need to slacken off before you can screw the pads in or out. Slacken off grub screw, adjust pads backwards or forwards, spin wheel to check clearance, retighten grubb screws to hold everything nice and tight.
2 final tips,
1)Everything is probably made out of aluminium except the bolts - DON'T over tighten you'll strp the threads! That's halfords job.
2) When applying the brakes the pads should not push the rotor one way or the other. check the brakes are not deflecting the rotor.
Let me know how you get on!
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My LBS couldn't fix my brakes so they made my bell louder
Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast!!
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greeneye
old hand
Reged: 19/04/2008
Posts: 840
Loc: sunderland
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thanks JamieD.
yeah i think muldoon is right, its one of those things you either hate it or love it.
thing is i am a really forgetful person, i used to lock my old forks out then forget until im ratteling my teeth out half way down a rough track, or i would bust a gut up a hill then curse my self for not locking out.
at least with my lovelys a dont need to think. 
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I. falloffalot
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